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Monthly Archives: February 2017

Take Care for Houseplants

Ignored houseplants may not bite the dust, but rather at some point or another they can look exceptionally pitiful or wiped out, get to be distinctly chaotic and canvassed in clean or irritations. Normal consideration regarding cleaning, irritation control, preparing and trimming will pay nice looking profits.

In brief

Dismissed houseplants may not bite the dust, but rather eventually they can look extremely pitiful or wiped out, get to be distinctly messy and shrouded in clean or nuisances. Normal consideration regarding cleaning, bug control, preparing and trimming will pay great looking profits. Standard preparing ought to incorporate the evacuation of leaves that hint at infection, have turned yellow or kicked the bucket. With blossoming plants, evacuating blurred sprouts will urge new bloom buds to open and proceed with the show.

Solving pest problems

A number of pests can attack your houseplants. Common ones include scale insects,white fly and mealybug. Control can be quick and easy – simply spray an effective insecticide solution onto your plants to protect them for up to 3 weeks. A systemic insecticide spray controls root pests and those on stems and leaves and is watered onto the compost.

Keep plants clean

Plant leaves that are kept clean and free of dust will absorb all the available light and so ensure your houseplants remain strong and healthy. Dust the leaves of smooth-leaved plants with a soft, damp cloth. Support the leaf with the palm of your hand and gently clean. A hand shower fitted to bath taps is a useful tool for washing down large plants or plants with many small leaves.

Cacti, succulents and hairy-leaved plants should not be sprayed or washed. Instead use a soft, dry brush to remove the dust.

Add an extra shine

For an extra glossy finish you can find leaf shining products that add a sparkle to your display. Don’t shine hairy-leaved plants, only those with thick, leathery leaves. Only shine mature leaves, not the new ones.

Room to root

As plants grow, their roots will gradually fill the pot and the plant will need very frequent watering, as there is little free compost available. If you want the plant to get bigger it’s time for a larger pot and repotting.

But flowering houseplants usually flower much better if they are kept slightly potbound, but in time these will probably need repotting too.

Repotting

The best time to repot houseplants is when they are actively growing – usually in spring, but also in early summer.

  1. Water the plant thoroughly before you start.
  2. Select a pot just one or two sizes bigger than the existing one and put a layer ofPotting Mix into the new pot.
  3. Knock the plant out of the existing pot and place the rootball into the new one.
  4. Fill the space around the rootball with Potting Mix Root Boosting Compost and lightly firm.
  5. Water thoroughly to settle the compost, and then place out of direct sunlight for a few days.

About Successful Houseplants

You needn’t bother with greenfingers or unique hardware to have flourishing houseplants. Rather, a bit of cherishing consideration and a couple of fundamental realities are all you require..

A large portion of the mystery of achievement is understanding that distinctive houseplants have diverse necessities. In the event that you watch your plants you will soon realize when water is required and when clouding is advantageous. The essential prerequisites for all plants are light, stickiness, water, warmth and nourishment. The harmony between them is the way to predictable achievement.

Warmth

A reasonably consistent temperature is best and wild temperature fluctuations should be avoided. So too are cold draughts and frosty winter windowsills. Most houseplants are happy at around 70°F (20°C), but some only thrive at colder temperatures. For example cyclamen prefer a temperature range between 50°F to 60°F (10°C to 15°C); Cineraria even colder.

Light

Adequate light is essential, but many plants with large thick green leaves can survive in shady corners for some time. Flowering plants and foliage plants with coloured or variegated leaves, need good, bright light. Only cacti and succulents appreciate direct summer sun at mid-day. In winter unshaded sunlight should have no scorching affect on any plant.

Humidity

Most forms of home heating produce an atmosphere which is too dry for the majority of pot plants. Central heating in winter will create a warm atmosphere which is as dry as the Sahara Desert. You can either spray your plants with fine droplets of water regularly or create a micro-climate around their leaves by grouping or by packing moss between the pot and its decorative container.

Water

Although correct watering should be easy, it is responsible for the death of more houseplants than anything else. Too much water poured regularly into the compost can cause plant roots to suffocate and rot. Remember to check that the composts is drying out with your finger before watering. Frequency of watering will vary throughout the year, depending on the plant’s growing conditions.

Food

Like all living things, plants need to be fed regularly when actively growing. Fresh compost will contain sufficient nutrients to last for around 6 weeks, so supplementary feeding is soon essential. Avoid feeding during a plant’s resting period. With most foliage plants this is in the winter – with flowering plants this is after the normal flowering period.

Steps to Make Houseplants Happy

Houseplants are immaculate to liven up the rooms of your home – the inconvenience is, they now and again turn yellow or shrink, and you have no clue why. Take after the simple strides in this venture and you’ll give your houseplants the most obvious opportunity to remain green and sound.

A solid houseplant has the correct blend of light, soil, and dampness. As it were, it lives in a place that is much the same as home. A decent tip is to make your plants agreeable by mirroring their local surroundings. It merits exploring where your houseplants originate from and what makes them flourish.

Ingredients

  • Moisture controlling compost
  • Ready to use plant food

Other useful items

  • Trowel
  • Moss, mulch or pebbles
  • Watering can

Step 1

Follow your plants’ changing watering needs. Plants vary their water needs over the seasons. When they’re actively growing, they need more water. Watch what your plant is doing and increase or decrease its water accordingly.

Step 2

For proper watering, think of your plant as a sponge. There’s no need to let your plant completely dry out before you flood it – that can be stressful. If you think of your plant as a sponge, you want to keep it moist enough to be able get a drop or two of water with a gentle squeeze.

Step 3

Maintain moisture in your plant soil. Place a little moss, mulch, or even some pebbles around the base of your plants to retain moisture in the container. If your schedule is a little hectic, and watering becomes an issue, try using a moisture-retention soil.

Step 4

Need for feed. Feeding will produce bigger, lusher plants with more blooms. Ready to use plant food comes in ready to use convenience so there’s no mixing, measuring or mistakes!

Step 5

Keep clear of bugs. As with all plants, houseplants can be attacked by a range of bugs. Use the latest insecticide in plant care which works by hitting existing pests, protecting against new attack to create stronger-resistant plants.

Prune Wisteria

Wisteria, what a hypnotizing marvel. Flawless pendulous sprouts trembling in the breeze, floating a powerful scent as you go underneath a course of brilliant green clears out. Or, on the other hand a woody mass of foliage as firmly tied as a chunk of fleece after a little cat has been playing with it. To guarantee that your Wisteria is a bounteous blossomer you should ace the specialty of customary pruning.

When to Prune Wisteria

Wisteria should be pruned twice per year to maintain a strategic distance from a mass of woody vine and huge amounts of foliage. Twice yearly pruning will support most extreme blooming and enhance the general strength of your Wisteria. The following are the best circumstances for pruning your Wisteria to occur?

Winter Pruning

The first pruning session of the year should be done in late Winter. February is the ideal time as the leaves are absent, the plant is deciduous and lying dormant. The aim is toprepare the vine for the growing season to come and ensure that any tangled stems are sorted and tidied before the leaf buds break open. The February Wisteria pruning also gives the opportunity for any support maintenance to be done to the arch, pergola, wall or any other support mechanism around which the Wisteria has been trained. Far easier to repair broken fence panels without the weight of leaves, than in the middle summer when the mass of flowers and leaves mean that you battle to hold the vine in place.

Mid Summer Pruning

The second pruning should occur in Mid Summer, sometime between July and August is the ideal time as this is the period immediately following the flowering season. The plant has expended it’s early energy and is ready to be refreshed and revived for new growth. Summer Wisteria pruning allows you to control its size and gives greater opportunity for training the Wisteria, to follow the path best suited to your garden, whether that is over a pergola or scrambling up a wall and delicately framing, rather than obscuring, the windows.

How to Prune Wisteria

Wisteria is a hardy vine and will, generally, be forgiving if a spot of light pruning turns into a hard cut back. However here is our guide to how to prune your Wisteria.

February Pruning

As February is the time you will be able to see all the stems of your Wisteria vine, now is the time to trace back to the main stem and sort out the shape of your plant.

Pruning Young Wisteria Plants

If your Wisteria has only had one or two summers of growth, February gives you the chance to create a strong framework in the plant. Cut back the main stem to a height of approximately 75cm and then untangle the side branches, before cutting back by about a third. Train the Wisteria to grow where you want it to, by tying into a supportive structure and removing any unwanted growth.

Pruning Mature Wisteria Plants

If your Wisteria is a more mature plant, February pruning keeps its size in check. Cut back new growth and main branches to just two or three buds to keep the plant neat, tidy and ready for the forthcoming growing period. Hard pruning may be required if there are dead stems to deal with, or particularly woody areas of the vine causing gaps in the foliage and flowering. In this case cut back to the first healthy stem you come to.

Summer Pruning

When flowering has ceased, this is the time to untangle and reduce the amount of new growth. Mid Summer pruning controls the Wisteria and creates a strong plant that may even flower for a second time in the early Autumn.

Start at ground level and remove any unwanted growth at the base of the vine. This will give strength to the main stem and concentrate the plants energies into its core. Whippy side shoots should then be cut back to no more than 5 buds. This will control the size of your Wisteria and prevent it from getting out of hand and tangled.

If a second flush of blooms appears, you will need to prune the Wisteria again when they finish to retain control of the vine’s growth.