This is default featured slide 1 title
This is default featured slide 2 title
This is default featured slide 3 title
This is default featured slide 4 title
This is default featured slide 5 title

Category Archives: Garden

Herbaceous Perennials

Herbaceous perennials are the pillar of quaint little inns, giving incredible sprinkles of shading, alongside shape and structure.

Perennials are hard to beat for their shading, frame and intrigue, and there are such a large number of to browse you can pretty much certification shading lasting through the year. There are low-developing structures, which give essential ground cover, to tall, forcing sorts giving incredible structure and eye-getting central focuses, for example, lupins and delphiniums..

Some people believe that the word herbaceous means that plants die down to ground level in autumn, coming back in spring. While many perennials do this, there are also lots of evergreens to choose from. And, of course, being perennial, they will go on flowering for many years.

How to plant perennials

Choosing plants that enjoy the conditions in your garden is the first step, but investing some care and attention at planting time and during establishment will ensure better performance for many years.

Although spring and autumn are regarded as the best times to plant, container-grown perennials can be planted all year round – just keep them well watered during dry weather.

  • Make sure the soil has been prepared well with lots of planting compost and all perennial weeds have been removed.
  • Ensure that the soil is loose enough to allow the roots to grow out.
  • Soak the plants with water before planting.
  • If necessary, if pot-grown plants look potbound, gently tease out some roots from the rootball.
  • Plant with a trowel, firm the soil around the plants by hand and water in thoroughly.
  • In large borders it pays to plant herbaceous perennials in groups of three or five for best effect.

Routine maintenance

The other great thing about herbaceous perennials is that they need minimal maintenance if you’ve chosen the right plants for your conditions and planted them well. But some simple routine maintenance will ensure better performance and a more attractive display.

Apply a mulch in spring, which will help prevent weed problems and maintain soil moisture levels, especially important with those plants that prefer a cool, moist root run, such as hostas and hellebores.

Some taller perennials, such as delphiniums and lupins, and those with heavy flower heads, such as peonies, usually need staking, especially in exposed areas. Supports should be put in place in spring, so that they soon become hidden by the foliage. Also, putting them in place later is more difficult and some damage may already have occurred.

Young spring growth is vulnerable to slugs and snails, so take action early in spring before damage occurs. Hostas, for example, are often attacked while the new shoots are still below ground level and as they unfurl.

Keep weeds under control – not only do they look unsightly, but also compete for space, light, food and water.

Keep young plants well watered and established plants may need watering during prolonged dry periods.

Giving the plants a good feed with a continuous release feed in spring will improve growth and flowering.

Deadheading faded flowers keeps plants tidy and can lead to further flushes of flowers later in the year.

In autumn, cut back dead and dying foliage and flower stems, unless you want them for winter effect, such as the flower heads of sedums or ornamental grasses. In cold areas and with not totally hardy plants, cutting back is best left until spring, as the top growth provides some protection against the cold.

Division and propagation

After a few years some perennials will have grown into large clumps, and eventually the mass of congested roots can mean reduced vigour, dying out in the centre, less flowering and problems with disease, such as powdery mildew. More invasive perennials will also start growing into their neighbours.

At this time, you will need to lift and divide the plants.Not only will this improve performance, but you’ll also have a greater number of plants, which can either be planted elsewhere in the garden or given away.

  • Divide perennials during their dormant season, usually between late autumn and early spring.
  • Dig up the clump and divide the roots by teasing the clump into separate pieces by hand, with a hand fork, or for large clumps, two garden forks used back to back.
  • Plants with fleshy roots are usually best divided with a sharp knife – each section should have at least three to five growth buds.
  • The youngest, outermost portions are the most vigorous; the central section is the oldest and should be discarded.
  • Make sure that each piece has more roots than top growth to ensure good re-establishment.

Tips to Protecting Plan Over Winter

We grow an extensive variety of plants in our patio nurseries – from plants that are completely solid and ready to withstand all way of solidifying chilly winter climate to those that need full ice insurance.

Absolutely solid plants require practically zero winter security, however marginal tough, tropical and sun-cherishing Mediterranean plants may require a little TLC to get them through the winter months unscathed. Indeed, even some alleged “tough” plants can be powerless in colder locales and greenery enclosures presented to solid, cool winds. “Hardy” is with respect to where you are in the nation and how serious and for to what extent the solidifying climate proceeds.

Indeed, even recently planted solid plants can be harmed or murdered in a drawn out cool spell, particularly when there are frosty winds, while new development place on in early spring amid a time of gentle climate is defenseless against sear if the climate turns colder later.

It’s the profundity of the chilly time frame, as well as its length – solidifying conditions that continue for a little while will be more harming than comparable or much more terrible conditions for only two or three days.

Tender Plants

Plants that will not tolerate low or close to freezing temperatures, such as most of our perennial  summer bedding plants, have to be overwintered frost free in a greenhouse or similar, where the temperature doesn’t dip down lower than 4-5°C (40-42°F).

Slightly Tender Border Plants

Most winter damage occurs when the roots become frozen solid for extended periods. You can protect the roots of penstemons, phygelius, ‘hardy’ fuchsias and other slightly tender plants from damaging winter frosts by covering the soil around them with a 7.5-10cm (3-4in) deep layer of mulch.

Also, don’t cut down the old stems until spring, as they can provide some extra frost protection of growth buds lower down on the stems, which may otherwise be killed.

Wrap up Warm

You can protect plants vulnerable to cold and frost with an enclosure made from windbreak netting and/or bubblewrap lined with garden fleece. Not-so-hardy wall shrubs can be insulated from the cold by spreading a sheet of fine-mesh netting over the plants and stuffing it with insulating material, such as straw or even dry leaves.

When using bubblewrap or other plastic coverings, make sure you remove it during warm periods or the plants may ‘sweat’ and start to rot.

Or, for quick and easy protection, cover the plants with a double layer of well secured garden fleece. Wherever possible, don’t allow the fleece to come into direct contact with the foliage, hold it away from the leaves using supporting canes or other structures.

Patio Plants and Pots

Even otherwise hardy plants can be damaged when growing in containers. The roots don’t have the protection from cold and frost provided by the surrounding soil when grown in the ground. You can protect the roots and container from severe weather by wrapping them in bubble wrap, hessian or, better still, home-made ‘duvets’ made from plastic bags filled with shredded newspaper, polystyrene chips, roofing insulation or similar materials and tied securely around the container. If possible, move the containers against a sheltered, south-facing wall or close to a building to provide extra protection. Raise the containers onto pot feet or bricks to avoid them sitting in the wet, which can lead to further root damage and cracking of terracotta pots.

Winter Flowering Tips

Is your garden looking a smidgen dismal in the winter months? Why not rouse it upwith some winter florals, for example, pansies and snapdragons? Winter doesn’t have to mean dull and boring. Perused on to find the most wonderful winter blossoms for the colder months that will add a sprinkle of shading to your garden.

  • Remember that plants grow very little in winter so make sure you pick good size plants to achieve the desired look for your garden.
  • Some may be evergreen, while others you may wish to plant in containers and rotate in accordance to the time of year. If you choose to grow your plants in containers – ensure you position your containers so that they will get the most light. Also, make sure to raise containers off the ground to aid drainage and prevent the pots from cracking.
  • Through prolonged frosts try to cover up plants such as pansies to ensure the best flowers for your garden.
  • Make sure to pinch out faded flowers to promote new buds to bloom.
  • Why not cut any favourite scented flowers and use for an indoor display that’s sure to light the drag of the shorter, colder days?

Abeliophyllum Distichum

This white flowering shrub is beautifully fragrant and stand at between 3 and 6 foot tall. Take care of this plant by pruning after flowering, and by protecting well from strong winds (we advise growing against a wall). You will begin to see the fragrant white flowers in February.

Daphne Mezereum

This winter flowering plant is commonly grown in household gardens because of their beautiful flowers, but be careful these are extremely toxic. Purple-red in colour these flowers will bloom between February and April with an array of bright red berries.

Hamamelis Intermedia

This winter flowering plant has several cultivars, many of which have received the Royal Horticultural Society’s award of garden merit. They stand tall and broad, with a zig-zag stem; flowering fragrant yellow orange flowers with twisted petals which will brighten up your garden between December and March.

Clematis Cirrhosa var. Balearica

These beautiful evergreen climbers have dark green leaves that transform to a bronze purple colour in winter. The slightly fragrant cup-shaped flowers are cream and spotted with red/maroon, blooming from November to March.


Known as ‘elephant ear’ (due to the shape of the leaves) this 10 species genus of flower plants is a much more attractive and vibrant family than the name suggests. Most of the varieties bloom cone shaped flowers in varying shades of pink, ruby red and purple, brightening up your garden between January and April.

Helleborus Niger

This winter flowering plant will bloom white flowers from December through to March. Standing at a height of 30-45cm, with large flat flowers, this evergreen plant is commonly known as the Christmas Rose. However, despite the name and its resemblance it is not part of the rose family.

Iris Unguicularis

If you’re after lilac flowers from October to March these are beautiful and sweetly scented. Lavender blue detailed with delicate markings these plants require south facing positioning, ideally against a wall.

Eranthis Hyemalis

This specie produces yellow flowers from January to March, and belongs to the buttercup family. Known as the winter aconite, this winter flowering plant is valued as one of the earliest winter flowers to appear.
Galanthus Nivalis

Galanthus nivalis Known as snowdrops this species produces white flowers from January to February. This specie is the best known and most wide spread of the total 20 species in its genus.

Scilla Mischtschenkoana ‘Tubergeniana’

These pale flowers bloom in February displaying a delicate silvery blue floret, decorated with dark blue stripes along each petal. Ideal for rockery, and a very low maintenance garden plant. However, be careful this species is harmful if eaten.

The Do’s and Don’ts of Compost

Some garden soils can be useful for developing plants/organic products/vegetables, in any case they can change significantly (even inside a similar garden) and not very many plant specialists are sufficiently fortunate to have culminate soil. Including manure or a dirt improver gives the correct developing conditions, which will guarantee you accomplish greater and more advantageous outcomes.

Picking the correct fertilizer is fundamental to get the most out of your plants/organic product/vegetables, however the fixings that make up various manures can differ drastically. For the best outcomes it is shrewd to utilize a fit for reason compost, which has been carefully fit for the employment close by.

The Do’s

  • Do choose a specialist compost for the task in hand, this will ensure you create the optimum growing conditions.
  • Do check out your garden soil pH balance before you get planting, and depending on the results, you may need to mix in Lime soil improver to get you started.
  • Do use any leftover compost and dig into your existing soil around your garden as a soil improver.
  • Do pot up your existing and new plants in fresh compost each year to minimise pests and diseases being carried over, this will also provide new nutrients that will have been used up.
  • Always water in your plants (even if the ground is moist) to remove air pockets and ensure the roots are in contact with the soil.
  • Do use gloves when gardening.

The Dont’s

  • Don’t sow seeds in standard compost for best results use a specialist seed compost that provides optimum root growth and contains plant food to help them develop.
  • Don’t be put off from growing fruit and vegetables by lack of space. You can achievehealthy crops in pots, hanging baskets and grow bags even in the smallest of areas.
  • Don’t forget that some acid loving plants such as azalea, camellia or rhododendron will require an ericaceous compost with a lower pH.
  • Don’t assume that there are enough nutrients in your garden soil to use for potting up containers and baskets. It may contain unwanted weeds, pests and diseases and also the soil won’t hold as much water as potting compost would, so your plants may suffer.
  • Don’t forget that decorative barks not only look great on beds and borders, but they suppress weeds and help retain valuable moisture too.
  • Don’t forget to follow the compost label instructions

Learn More about Sunflowers

The sunflower, or some of the time known as Helianthus (which is Greek for sunflower) starts from North America. It was just embraced in Western Europe in the late sixteenth century when it was transported in by Spanish adventurers and made notable by well known canvases by Van Gogh. From that point forward it has gone from being a mainstream elaborate plant in the UK to a valuable plant with basic fixings to our business items and additionally as yet being adored for its alluring properties.

When to Grow Sunflowers

Sunflowers typically grow in the Spring through to the Summer so it is best to plant in the Spring time. We would suggest planting in mid April through to the end of May. This will produce a grown plant that is liklely to flower during August.

Planting Sunflowers

Firstly, as with any planting, you will need to make sure that the soil where you are growing the sunflower is in the right condition to grow a healthy plant. Of course, if you are using a vegetable bed/ pre made garden then you need not worry about this step. If however you are planting straight into the garden, you will need to clear the area in question of weeds and condition the soil so that it is fine and crumbly. Keep in mind that sunflowers need diect sunlight for 6-8 hours a day, when picking the right place to plant your seeds.

Once the soil is in the right condition for planting it is time to drill holes for the sunflower seeds to be sown, we would recommend between 10-12mm deep. Sunflowers grow best when they are not crowded, so you must plant your seeds about 50cm apart, especially to cater for the low-growing varities which will branch out more. If you are planting very small varieties then you can plant the seeds a little closer together (around 40cm).

Caring for Sunflowers

Sunflowers are a versatile plant which will thrive in many soil types, so you have a wide choice of soil and compost which will all get the job done. Of course, it will always be best to make sure the soil is as nutrient rich as possible. Once the seeds have been planted they may attract some garden pests and birds may try and eat the seeds. You can prevent this by either using a barrier, some wire or container to cover the seeds.We recommend using a cut bottle top as it is transparent so light can get to it, and there top allows for oxygen to circulate whilst being small enough to prevent intrusion.

Once your sunflowers start to grow to an established height the stem will sometimes need support. It is good practices to use some cane or bamboo alongside the stem with some string lightly tied to the plant to ensure it grows as tall as it can.

What Can Sunflowers Be Used for?

You would be surprised by how many things that sunflowers are used for, more specifically the oil that is extracted from sunflowers. The obvious and most common use is sunflower oil which is very popular for cooking, but there are some which you may not have heard of too. For example sunflower oil can be used for fuel for automotive vehicles, as an ingredient in some types of glue and an ingredient in some types of soap.

As well as the oil, the seeds of sunflowers are very popular which can be eaten fresh. They are very popular for bird seeds, which you might want to keep in mind if you are looking to create a good environment for bird wildlife in your garden.

Aside from practical uses, sunflowers make a very attractive house ornament because of it’s large sun-like flower, which will brighten up any room and add something special to your home.

Flower Problems that You Should Know


The most common of all pests and almost every plant from the smallest shrub to the tallest oak tree can be infested.


A pest that eats the developing buds of chrysanthemums and dahlias. These bugs cause damage to plants as they eat the young leaves and flowers. Damage is most easily recognised as irregular holes in leaves and petals.

Grey mould

This is an extremely common fungus and grows on many plants. As the name suggests a greyish fuzzy fungal growth develops over the infected area.

Rain Damage

Causes ‘balling’ of flower heads.

Red spider mite

Perhaps the smallest of the common sap feeding insects. Leaves first develop a pale mottling but as the infestation progresses so the leaves become increasingly yellowish white.


Small dark spots on stems. Larger dark swellings again on stems often accompanied by leaf distortion. Sometimes swelling and distortion of a flower’s stamen. Black sooty powder.


Thrips (sometimes called Thunder Flies) are yellow-black, very thin and about 2mm long. Yet another sap feeding insect but one with a difference. This one will happily feed on the surface of a leaf.

Tips to Improve Your Soil

Relatively few of us are normally honored with a decent rich topsoil soil that is perfect for developing all plants. Fortunately, in the event that you have a poor soil, it is sensibly simple to enhance it, so that about all plants will flourish.

In Brief

The two soil extremes are substantial earth and light, sandy soils – both can be enhanced by including heaps of cumbersome natural matter to enhance the structure and broaden the scope of plants that will flourish.

Burrowing will enhance the waste of earth soils, however is pointless on topsoil or sandy soils. While you are burrowing, fuse as much cumbersome natural matter as you are capable. Your fertilizer load will give all around spoiled material made from vegetable peelings from the kitchen blended with grass cuttings and other plant material, for example, fallen leaves, dead yearly sheet material plants and yearly weeds. On the other hand you can make leafmould from fallen tree and bush clears out.

If you don’t have enough material from your garden compost for your needs, then you will need to buy in suitable materials. These include well-rotted manure, mushroom compost, composted bark, all-purpose compost or tree and shrub planting compost and soil conditioners. Also remember to dig in any compost from spent growing bags, patio pots and hanging baskets once they are finished.

Improving Heavy Clay Soil

Clay soils are usually cold, wet and sticky for most of the year, but in dry weather they dry out and can turn into ‘concrete’, surface cracks appear or the surface cakes over. On the positive side, clay soils are inately fertile and hold a lot of moisture and plant food, which are not leached away by rain. A good clay soil will grow all plants well – a rubbish soil, will only grow rubbish plants!

Dig any unplanted areas in early autumn, and add a generous amount of organic matter as you go. Leave the clods rough so that frost can break down the structure. A dressing of gypsum and even sharp sand or horticultural grit will also help in this process of producing a crumb structure. Repeat the process each autumn to help produce a crumbly textured soil.

Soil in between plants can be gradually improved if bulky organic matter is forked into the top 15cm (6in) of soil each autumn. A mulch layer of material applied each spring around established plants, will also help improve the structure and the amount of worm and micro-organism activity.

Improving Light Sandy Soils

Light sandy soils soon run short of nutrients and water quickly drains out of them, which means watering is required frequently during summer. Plants will only establish a shallow root system.

The way to improve this type of soil is to add bulky organic matter in spring. Use plenty of farmyard manure, garden compost or organic soil conditioner when planting to give moisture-holding material at root level. Mulch all over in late spring to reduce evaporation and use ground cover plants to shield the soil.

Ways to Feeding Border Plants

In people the distinction between adequate sustenance and insufficient is very evident. The body goes through any vitality saves, getting in shape and turning out to be horrendously thin. Plants, much the same as people, need an adjusted eating routine of supplements to develop to their most extreme potential.

Plants should have the capacity to draw on stores of all the crucial components to have solid leaves and deliver quality blooms and natural product. So if your petunias are pale and the leaves of your rhododendrons, tomatoes and roses are turning yellow between the veins then you have to get nourishing.

General plant feeding

Plant starvation can be effectively cured with a general plant nourishment that contains each of the three noteworthy supplements – nitrogen, phosphate and potash. One utilization of a controlled discharge plant sustenance will nourish your plants for a while, discharging supplements relying upon soil temperature. These savvy plant nourishments increment the arrival of supplements to coordinate the prerequisites of the plant – progressively when its warm and less when the temperatures fall.

Alternatively you can feed and water every fortnight with soluble plant food applied quickly and easily through the feeder which feeds your plants as easy as watering. This is specially beneficial if you are growing lots of flowering bedding plants that need regular watering to thrive.


For roses to produce a whole new set of stems, leaves and flowers every year, they use up plenty of plant foods and can soon exhaust reserves in the soil. Roses are heavy users of plant nutrients, so select a fertiliser that is rich in all nutrients. Rose & shrub plant foodis specially designed to feed roses and flowering shrubs. Sprinkle it around the plant roots twice a year, once in March just before new growth starts and again in May ready for summer flowering.


To produce a rewarding and tasty crop of tomatoes feed plants every 10 days with Levington Tomorite – Britain’s favourite liquid tomato food. It’s full of nutrients, supplemented with magnesium to help prevent leaves turning yellow between the veins.

Acid-loving plants

Most Rhododendrons, Azaleas, Camellias and other acid loving plants can’t thrive in soil that contains too much lime. Unfortunately they cannot absorb natural iron from soils that are alkaline. This trace element may be there, but these ericaceous plants can’t use it. To avoid the problem either grow them in containers of an ericaceous compost or supply iron in a special plant food tonic.

One application of sequestrene plant tonic will supply enough chelated iron to last in the soil from early spring until plant growth slows in autumn. If your plants need regular feeding at the same time then use ericaceous compost every couple of weeks throughout the spring and summer.

When to feed

Starting the growing season off with a good meal to avoid general malnutrition is good practice. Forward-looking gardeners dig well-rotted garden compost into the soil whenever appropriate and feed their plants with a balanced plant food from a box. Plant scientists make sure they include all the nutrients your different plants will need in the correct balance so you don’t have to even think about it. Just follow the instructions on each package.

Don’t feed plants growing outdoors when they are dormant. For most plants that means feeding during spring and summer and avoiding supplying extra nutrients during the winter when they are resting.

Why Mulch Your Garden?

While mulching your garden, understanding your dirt and its needs is the way to planting achievement. Soil goes about as a stay for plant roots and holds air, water and plant supplements which are basic for proceeded with plant development. Mulching your garden traps significant dampness in your dirt enhancing the availablity take-up of supplements and furthermore anticipating weed development.

Why Do you Mulch Soils?

Mulching your dirt is a critical stride for enhancing your dirts structure making them ready to clutch more supplements, dampness and air. You may feel that you are just setting a cover over your dirt, yet infact the mulches are separating and discharging profitable substance into your dirts. So one basic act will enhance your dirt, keeps weeds under control and make your quaint little inns look far superior.

Why Do Soils Need Improving?

Clay soils

Although clay soils hold nutrients well, they are heavy, slow to warm up and tend to be too wet (sticky) in the winter and too dry (rock hard) in the summer. The key to improving these soils is to break up the mass, and increase aeration and drainage by adding composted soil conditioner to achieve a crumb-like texture.

Silty soils

Silt particles are extremely fine and tend to rise to the soil surface forming a water-resistant crust when dry. Adding soil improver will help with the structure and allow water to penetrate.

Sandy soils

These are very light, easily eroded, dry and lack substance and the ability to hold water or nutrients. Soil improvers help to retain moisture and nutrients before they leach away.

Regular mulching will help improve all these soil types and give you much stronger, healthier plants – with the added benefit of reducing weed growth!

What is Mulching?

Mulching your garden is adding a thick layer of organic matter (usually manure, compost or bark) on the surface, this will help to retain soil moisture, suppress weeds, add nutrients and insulate plant roots. The best garden mulch should be attractive too. Try decorative bark or woodchip mulch. Each will provide an attractive surface that adds a decorative and useful finish to flower beds, around the base of trees and along the edges of paths. Make sure you water the ground thoroughly before you add your layer of mulch, you need to trap the moisture in the soil so make sure there is moisture there first!

Different Types of Mulch

There are many different organic mulches available, the best ones will form a dense mat holding in water and gradually breaking down releasing nutrients into the soil. Well rotted Farmyard Manure is often used and is great for keeping weeds off empty beds that are resting over winter, waiting for their spring planting.  When you are ready to plant simply dig the manure in and you have a well fertilised, weed free soil to start planting up.

Leaf mulch is used in a similar way and can easily be made at home by having a seperate compost bin just to collect leaves in, the leaves rot down over the year and produce a lovely organic mulch, and it’s free!

Composted bark is another good choice, much less smelly than the manure and generally darker and richer in colour so more pleasing to the eye.

Wood chip mulch is a popular option, it can come in a range of sizes and styles. Pine bark nuggets tend to be viewed as the most attractive of the barks, with the stripped bark similar to the type you see in childrens play areas being the cheapest option.

How to Apply Mulch

  1. Clear the site of all weeds
  2. If the ground is dry, water thoroughly
  3. Cover the area in a layer of your chosen garden mulch
  4. Make sure the area has a mulch depth of at least 2 inches (5cm)
  5. Clear the mulch away from the stems of the plants
  6. Use a plastic rake to gently level the surface

Tips to Create More Space in Your Garden

Outside space is valuable to everybody, except very frequently we don’t have enough, or what we do have is invade by children toys, pets or utilized for stopping. So to recover a little corner back for yourself why not attempt ‘vertical planting’.

Indeed, even the most modest of spaces can be changed with somewhat vertical planting. The sky truly is the point of confinement, as you’ll be cultivating upwards and not at ground level. We’ve utilized an old stride stepping stool to spruce up a shabby corner yet you could without much of a stretch utilize hanging wicker bin, a trellis or pots on dividers or fence posts.


  • Enriched Compost
  • Miracle-Gro LiquaFeed (ideal for attaching to a hosepipe)
  • Patio Magic!
  • Empty pots or containers

Other useful items

  • Garden string/wire
  • Gardening gloves
  • Trowel
  • Watering can or hose

Step 1

March to October : Pick a corner on your patio that could do with brightening up a bit, and think about ways in which you can start gardening upwards.

Step 2

If there’s any mould, moss or algae on the paving, clean it up with Patio Magic!. Applied through a watering can it shows effects in 3 to 4 days and goes on working for months.

Step 3

Next, place a layer of gravel or broken pots at the bottom of your chosen containers for drainage, then add some enriched compost, which is suitable for outdoor use. Place the root ball of your plant onto this layer and fill around with more compost.

Step 4

Plant up a selection of container type plants, including plenty of trailing ones such as ivy, fuchsia or geraniums. Experiment with different colour schemes, and try grouping different sizes together for a more relaxed feel.

Step 5

Place one of the pots on each of the steps of the ladder, or at different heights within your chosen area, with the trailing varieties towards the top.

Step 6

Maintain by feeding regularly with a LiquaFeed.